Alexander McCall Smith returns to Botswana – Old Friends and Old Naledi

Date Published: 9th March 2026

Days 3 & 4, SOS Children’s Home and Old Naledi

In the morning, the group set out for the SOS Children’s Village in Tlokweng, the real-life inspiration for the orphan farm in The No.1 Ladies’ Detective Agency books. Here they met the dedicated staff, spent time with the children, enjoyed a taste of the matron’s famous fruitcake, and joined the ‘No.1 Fruitcake Award’ ceremony. They then went on to Old Naledi, Botswana’s only township, for a guided walk and drive through its bustling streets. Mentioned often in the books, Old Naledi is alive with small car washes, hair salons, street kitchens, and snooker bars. They finished with music and dance at the Mafitlhakgosi Cultural Café where the ‘No.1 Dance Award’ celebrates talented local performers.

Amongst those Alexander met up with was Professor Sheila Tlou, a Board of Member for Botswana Harvard AIDS Institute Partnership (BHP), a Co-Chair of the Nursing Now Global Campaign and the Global HIV Prevention Coalition and a Former Minister of Health and Wellness in Botswana from 2000-2004. How fitting to meet up with this remarkable woman again on International Women’s Day.

Alexander McCall Smith with Professor Sheila Tlou – picture courtesy of Mats Ögren Wanger

Judging The No.1 Fruitcake Competition. Photographs courtesy of Mats Ögren Wanger.

Photographs courtesy of Mats Ögren Wanger.

In Old Naledi, the group drive around this vibrant area, past the Pre-School (supported as part of this tour.) They call at the home of a Thandi, a village elder, a longtime resident of Old Naledi with deep roots in the community and meet the Principal of the Pre-School. From both of them we learn about life in Old Naledi.

In the Mafitlhakgosi Cultural Café, a hub of history, culture and home to the famous dance group, we experienced the spirit of Old Naledi with a warm musical welcome, a vibrant traditional dance and the presentation of the No. 1 Dance Award for Dance.

Alexander has returned to Botswana. This is a guided tour for readers from all over the world, with Okavango Delta Explorations. Alexander receives no fee for this adventure but benefits from the company of readers from around the world who share his love for the country. He is travelling in the company of his great friend, journalist and film maker Mats Ögren Wanger and in the footsteps of his much loved character from The No.1 Ladies’ Detective Agency, Precious Ramotswe. As ever, we are grateful to Mats Ögren Wanger for his photography and videos which help to bring this journey to life.

The following day was largely travel for the group as they headed to Maun.